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So, let's say you do not turn on the computer. What I mean under the expression "does not turn on" - you click on the power button, but nothing happens: the fans are not spinning, SPEAKER does not cook, nothing trite happens, as if the computer is dead or not connected to the network.
What to do in such a situation? To begin with - to keep yourself in your hands and do not panic. Calmfully read this material and believe that you will succeed, because in 90% of cases, any problems with PC are solved without third-party repair at the service center (and most of the repair in the service center is too expensive to produce this repair and is much easier to replace the components) .
Remember everything and be honest with yourself
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Diagnostics and troubleshooting will greatly facilitate your memories and honesty with yourself. Try to remember that the last time you did with the computer, after which he stopped turning on. I'll tell you on my example - my PC stopped running, and that was what it was with him: I made a replacement of the thermal paste, after that I experimented with acceleration on an open test bench, then I collected all the components back to the housing, during the assembly to fix 24-PIN Power of the motherboard, I accidentally leaned with a hand not on the body, but on the tower cooler, after which he heard a clear click, but did not give it values.
From the described actions it becomes obvious that the problem is socket, and perhaps I buried myself VRM. But, all, we hope that the problem will solve somehow differently and try to look for the problem where it is not?
Therefore, go to detailed malfunction diagnostics.
Full diagnostics and troubleshooting
So, we click on the power button, but nothing happens. What to do?
First: Checking the connection of all cables, including whether the power supply is turned on and it is saved from the network. If the faults are not found, then go to the next step.
Second: Check the help of the buttons - disconnect the "Power SW" wire and closer the corresponding contacts. You can close the contacts with any metal object without a layer of insulation, whether it is a screwdriver, a razor blade or a knife, a piece of wire or wires with stripped insulation. You only need to touch this item to two necessary contacts. If nothing happens, then perhaps contacts or an object in fat, you should degrease the place of contact and the subject itself and repeat the action again.
Third: If still nothing happens, the time pull out the components from the body on the table or on any other surface, wherever it would be convenient to work and inspect the components. Try everything to run on the table, perhaps, the iron wall of the housing somehow closed the motherboard or any other PC element.
Fourth: if the actions described above did not give any results, then the time to check the power supply is time. Naturally, if you have a test motherboard or a multimeter, then checking will be much more informative and simple, but let's imagine the situation that you have nothing. How in this case, check the power of the power supply (in any case, is it possible to start the system)? To do this, you will need a piece of wire or wires with stripped insulation or, the most banal - metal clip (preferably not painted). Scroll paper and maintain it in the arc so that the two of its ends is parallel to each other. Next, disconnect the power supply unit to eliminate the possibility of at least some electric shock. The remaining power supply cables must also be disconnected from any connectors. You take 24-pin (20 + 4pin, or 20-pin on the most ancient) block and closure the contact of the green wire with the contact of the black wire by the very closet or wire. If the contacts are not painted in your power supply, then place the block as shown in the diagram, count the appropriate contacts and close them (the fourth on top, from the side where the castle with the fifth / sixth / seventh is located on the same side).
We do not forget that we de-energized the power supply. After contacting the contacts, feed meals on the BP, not forgetting the button at the back.
If the power supply is started - rejoice, the power supply is fed. If the power supply is not started - you still rejoice, it is possible that only the power supply is not in charge (even in such a situation, try to maintain optimism).
Fifth: let's say our power supply is fully fulfilled. It follows that the problem is in the motherboard and / or in those components that are fixed on it. Let's start with a simple: pull out the battery from the motherboard and shorterate contacts in the nest where the battery is inserted. Create a closure will be enough in a de-energized motherboard literally for 3-5 seconds. Next, try to start the fee.
Sixth: If the above actions did not lead to any result, then the video card should be disconnected from the motherboard and already at this stage to start inspection of the motherboard. I also recommend connecting the smell to inspection if you smell Gary, then, most likely, something burned and you should replace the components that burned. But if the visual inspection did not reveal any physical defects, then try to start the system without a video card (naturally, and without other device connected to the board).
Seventh: If the PC could not be launched at the previous step, then the exclusion method is able to find out: a malfunction can be in RAM, motherboard and, in extreme cases, in the processor (which is still happening). You should try to run the system without RAM. If there is some garbage in the slots, it should be cleaned, for example, a toothbrush (clean). If at that moment the culprit is found, then you can congratulate you: either a problem with a memory controller inside the processor, or a problem in the slots of the motherboard RAM, or a problem in one or several memory modules at once. How to return to life RAM - about this and other non-standard solutions of typical computer breakdowns you can learn from the previous material.
Eighth: Suppose the system has not started and in this case. Consequently, the problem lies in the processor or in the motherboard. But it is not necessary to worry in advance that someone of them is a corpse or needs an expensive service repair. Remove the cooler from the processor, clean it with the cover from the thermal paste. Carefully inspect both the legs of the processor and its substrate and CMT components (if any). If with visual inspection it was revealed that the processor is in perfect order, then it is time to inspect the socket.
Carefully inspect the okolosokate space and socket itself. If the visual inspection did not reveal any problems, and you do not feel the smell of Gary, then inspect the motherboard from the reverse side. You need to remove the bokeplate, carefully inspect the CMT components behind the socket, inspect all the tracks on the board on the subject of scratches, there should be no cracks on the motherboard textolite. If the visual inspection also did not reveal the fault, then insert the processor back to the socket and try to start the system. In extreme case, if the board still did not start, then try to run the motherboard without a processor.
Ninth: But in this case, the system refuses to start, this means that either the problem is only in the motherboard, or the problem in the motherboard, and in the other components (except for the power supply). In this case, you can only remove the radiators from the nutrition chains of the motherboard and, accordingly, to inspect the so-called "feed" of your motherboard. You should be interested in condensers and field transistors (Mosfets). If the condenser has failed to determine quite easily, then the transistor failed most often can be determined only due to a multimeter transvelon. The discarded capacitor or non-working transistor is easy to replace fairly, having dropped by an ordinary soldering iron by 40-60 watts.
Naturally, I described only the most banal problems and malfunctions that are amenable to diagnosis without specialized equipment and professional skills. If, let's say, you were spilled on a system unit any liquid or dropped to a working motherboard a metal object conductive an electric current (a screw or screwdriver), after which the PC turned off (it is possible that with special effects), then in this Case you can not do without special skills or service.
Repair in my case
So, first, I removed the tower cooler, removed the processor and began to examine the socket. In some places, he was a blurred thermobust. But in general it looked without physical damage. Fortunately, I did not break it, I accidentally gets his hand on the cooler.
The remnants of the thermal span on the edge of the socket, I cleaned the usual pure toothbrush. In difficultly reaching places, it is best to use toothpick. If the socket is strongly crushed, it is recommended to rinse with alcohol, acetone, gasoline and brushing up a soft toothbrush, in some cases a needle is suitable (if the LGA socket) is suitable.
Next, I started visual examination of the processor - all his legs, fortunately, were in place. There was no left-handed legs.
On the inside of the processor substrate were the tracks of the thermal paste. I take them with a cotton waller, not the horn of the processor foot. But I recommend using a conventional wooden toothpick.
As we managed to find out, the thermal paste in most cases does not conduct an electric current. Even if it is present in the socket and on the inside of the processor substrate, it will not lead to a closure.
Next, I removed the bokeplate and examined the motherboard on the reverse side. Visual inspection did not reveal any damage.
I collected the system and launched my PC. The fee successfully started and offered me to set up the system in the BIOS, as "decided" that I installed a new processor in the socket. However, in BIOS, fortunately, all my settings profiles are preserved.
This was completed on this PC repair, I tested the configuration in OCCT, everything was successful.
Whether after reading this article, stop the computers and experiment - of course not, because the enthusiast remains an enthusiast only while he continues to experiment, it is this and distinguishes him from the consumer. But it is worth it to be more attentive and neat when assembling a PC - definitely.
In my opinion, in repairing a PC and correcting faults, honesty with yourself is at least a quarter of success, half of the same success is to properly form a diagnosis, and only a quarter of success remains for direct repairs as such. Do not look for the problem where it is not. And, if it came to handle to the service center, it is important to say the truth to the master, as you brought the PC to such a state, whether it is the cut paths on the motherboard with a screwdriver or spilled tea with a laptop. It will save time for the repairman, and you have money cast for repair.
If you are not able to solve the problem on your own, then I advise you to visit the conference of Overclockers.ru, where you will definitely help and give advice.
But in my case, the conference participants could not understand what exactly led to a PC malfunction, so let's try to find out in the comments that it was not allowed a PC to start and what could be (and maybe so far) damaged in the motherboard?
This material is written by the site visitor, and for it is accruedRemuneration
Why does not turn on the computer? Sometimes the user faces such a situation: it usually presses the computer's power button, but nothing happens, the computer does not turn on.
The reasons for this may be different, while we are more often about physical equipment defects. In some cases, it is possible to cope with the problem independently, but basically you have to call the masters.
So why does not turn on the computer?
There are several such reasons, among the most common can be noted:
- Malfunctions with outlets, network filters, UPS;
- Presence of closures in peripheral devices;
- Faults of the video card, BP, motherboard.
First of all, you should check the sockets, network filters and an uninterrupted power supply - perhaps the network voltage simply does not enter the computer.
The best tester check the presence of voltage on the cable connected to the computer.
If everything is in order with the specified elements, turn off the entire peripheral (even the mouse and keyboard) and try to turn on the computer again.
If it earns, the problem is in one of the disabled devices. Connecting them alternately (on the computer turned off), you will easily find faulty.
If the computer does not turn on and in this case, check the video card, the computer may not work because of its fault.
In some cases, it is enough to remove the video card out of the slot and insert again so that the computer began to work again.
Finally, the power supply or motherboard may be faulty. To repair them will not work independently without the appropriate skills, so you need to entrust this job by a specialist of the service center.
Our service center service center http://sell.ru/remontservis works throughout the Russian Federation and with a guarantee to 2 years.
Failures When enabling a computer can occur at different stages, each of which indicates different sources of the problem - from the discharge connector and the wrong configuration before damage to the motherboard.
1. Lack of reaction
If there is no sound after pressing the power button, the fans are not spinning, and the LED indicators will not light, first of all, make an external inspection of the power supply, namely, check whether the power wire is reliably connected to the socket and the connector in the block, and is also Power supply switch in the "On" position.
Next, check whether the feed wires in the motherboard connectors are not distinguished, which can occur at desktop PCs when carrying out non-cellionation manipulations or with strong vibrations. First open the housing cover on the left and see if the cables from the power supply to the motherboard are properly connected. Disconnect a wide 24-pin connector and a 12-volt four or eight-contact connector of the additional power supply of the processor and inspect them. In case of detection of contacting contacts, the case can be in the voltage jump or in the power supply fault. It is possible that it affected all the components of the system, which can entail the purchase of a new computer.
If everything is in order from the power source, check whether the power buttons are connected correctly and rebooted on the case to the motherboard and whether they are easy-to-connect - small two-contact connectors must be firmly connected to the contact conclusions. Turn off the "Reset" button and try to enable your computer (if it works, it means, the reboot button is defective and must remain disabled).
If it does not help, disconnect the power button. Next, if the system can be started by closing both contacts, for example, using a clip, then the power button is defective. In this situation, connect the reboot button and use it later as the "ON / OFF" switch. Otherwise, you will have to attribute the system unit into the workshop for diagnostics.
2. PC works, but the monitor remains turned off
If the coolers and LED indicators work, but the image on the monitor screen is not displayed and it remains black, check its power supply, and also make sure the display setup menu is displayed when the corresponding key is pressed. If not, it means that the monitor is defective - this can be checked by temporarily connecting another display (or TV with a HDMI cable).
If the on-screen menu is output, across the inputs using the Source button located on the monitor or the corresponding item in the menu until the desired connected input is displayed. Then across the output modes on the PC turned on by holding the "WIN" key and double pressing "P" - this allows you to switch to the next of the four modes. Wait a few seconds and switch a total of four times to check whether the image is displayed in one of the modes. If these actions do not bring results, replace the monitor cable and try another available interface (for example, HDMI or VGA instead of DVI) in order to exclude connectors or cable faults.
Finally, the most time-consuming method is to check if the installation or replacement of the video card will help (to begin with, it may be old or borrowed to the video card). If all of these attempts are not crowned with success, it is likely that there is some other hardware problem that you can diagnose with the following actions.
3. BIOS does not start / hangs
Flashing cursor on the screen when starting a PC or hang when initializing the BIOS may indicate various hardware problems. First, check whether all connectors (for example, a central processor cooler) are properly connected to the motherboard and whether all the coolers work. If necessary, replace faulty. The motherboard speaker in certain cases issues important information in the form of sound signals, the value of each of which is explained in the manual of the motherboard user. However, for this it is necessary that this small speaker is properly connected to the SPEAKER connector of the motherboard (make sure this or use a special POST card for diagnostics).
The signs described may also indicate the incorrect BIOS setup settings - this problem is easily eliminated by resetting the settings to factory. The procedure is described in the motherboard manual. In most cases, it is necessary to install a jumper with the inscription "Clear CMOS" when the computer is turned off on the board to the reset position for a few seconds, and then rearrange it back.
No image on the screen may be caused by a monitor fault, a PC or cable between them.
Next suspect - RAM: Check each module individually (if only one is installed, try inserting it another slot) and, if necessary, replace faulty.
Then disconnect all the hardware that is not interested in the PC, from USB, PCIE and other computer connectors. If after that it starts, gradually plug all back - and try until you find the culprit.
If nothing has helped, probably the motherboard and / or the central processor is damaged, and you need to prepare for the acquisition of new devices.
4. Windows does not start
The computer passes the BIOS initialization stage, but gives a message that the boot disk is not found? First, check if the SATA power cable and the data cable of your hard disk or solid-state drive are connected correctly. Then try to connect the disk by means of another cable and to one of the other ports. If it does not appear in the BIOS Setup / UEFI (to check, click "DEL" when the computer is loaded, go to the "Advanced Chipset Features" section and or other similar, and see whether the disk is recognized on one of the SATA channels), try connecting HDD Through the SATA interface or in USB Case to another computer. If it does not work, it means that the disc is damaged, and most likely, only a professional service for a fairly high price will be able to restore the data.
If the disk is displayed in the BIOS Setup or still read on another computer, but is no longer bootable, then you must first start the recovery system and back up the data in connection with the risk of file system errors or hardware failure. Then restore the operating system bootloader: Download the computer from the Windows installation media (insert a DVD or USB drive, after switching on, press "F12" or a similar key, in the download menu, select Media). Run the command line. Then enter: "bootrec / fixmbr" "ENTER", "BOOTREC / FIXBOOT", "ENTER". If it does not help, run the console again and enter "bootrec / rebuildbcd", "Enter". If it does not work, it is likely that your Windows suffered as a result of damage to the file system or hard disk, which must be reinstalled - best on a new disk, as the old after failure will already be unreliable.
5. Unable to log in Windows
If Windows begins to download, but cannot finish it, you have two options: either to make a long break (for example, Windows voluminous updates may require several dozen minutes depending on the system to perform all operations when rebooting), or if even After an hour, nothing happens or the problem is not related to Windows updates, download the download in safe mode. This mode is proposed as an option after a sudden power outage. In other cases, immediately after the start, press F8 (in Windows 10 - "SHIFT + F8"). If the problems with updates interfere with launch, Windows will cancel them, after which the system should boot as usual. In addition, in this mode, you can update or delete software and drivers, the installation of which probably led to a problem.
In other cases, run the System Configuration tool in the "Services" tab, activate the "Do not display Microsoft services" option and remove the checkbox from all other displaced services.
Now turn off on the "Run System" tab (Windows 7) or in the Task Manager on the "Auto-loading" tab (Windows 8 and 10), all automatically downloadable programs. If this does not help, remove all unnecessary devices. As the last measure, before starting the reinstallation, run in safe mode command line on behalf of the administrator (enter the "Start" "CMD" menu field, right-click on "cmd.exe" and select the "Startup on behalf of the administrator" item) and Enter "SFC / SCANNOW" - this will allow you to check all system files and, if necessary, replace them with original.
Other useful articles on Ichip.ru
The trouble described in the title of the article, sooner or later occurs with each computer: in one beautiful (or not very) day it ceases to turn on. Sometimes this is preceded by some event, and sometimes there is absolutely nothing. In some cases, such failures are fixed very easily, and in others - with great difficulty. In a word, a circle of problems leading to the inclusion of the PC is very extensive. Let's talk about them in more detail: because of what they occur, how to find the cause and deal with the problem independently, without resorting to the help of masters.
What do we mean when we say that the computer does not turn on
When someone says that his computer does not turn on, know that under this complaint may mean the following:
- The PC does not really turn on: the reaction to pressing Pressing the power button is completely missing.
- The PC turns on, but not to the end: sometimes it is limited to turning on the indicators on the system unit and the keyboard, sometimes - the sounds of the system speaker, sometimes the fans start working when the power button is started, and then nothing happens. The total detail is one - the screen remains black.
- The PC turns on and immediately turns off or goes into an infinite reboot until the image appears on the screen.
- The PC turns on and works, but the operating system does not start on it.
The first 3 situations have a hardware origin, that is, associated with a malfunction or incorrect connection of equipment. The latter is most often caused by the operating system errors that have arisen, for example, due to the unsuccessful update of Windows 7 to Windows 10, as well as device drivers failures. In the case of drivers, Windows startup is usually interrupted in a blue death screen - BSOD.
In more rare cases, the inability to load the OS is also associated with iron problems - as a rule, RAM or hard disk.
Causes of true not inclusion
Since operating system download failures are a separate large topic, we will not stop in detail on them. Consider the reasons for the first three situations and in addition to them - another one: the power on the computer is not the first time, but after repeated clicks on the power button. So…
The computer does not respond to the start button
- No power supply from the mains (no socket or device is working through which the computer is connected to the current source - UPS or a power filter). The only reason not associated with a PC malfunction.
- The power supply does not produce the required voltages, as it is defective, it is not perfectly produced or not powered due to the damage to the electric cord.
- Bad contact in the connectors of the devices, damage to the power cables inside the system unit.
- Low battery voltage BIOS microcircuits.
- Short circuit in one of the devices.
- Malfunction of the inclusion circuit elements on the motherboard.
- Fault power button on the system unit.
- Inclusion blocking with a static charge.
The computer is not fully turned on (no initialization)
- Forty elements of the video subsystem (video card, monitor, video cable). Lack of image on the monitor, even if everything, except the video, works, in the user's eyes looks like a computer not key.
- The BIOS firmware flies (on some laptops, the BIOS is manifested by a complete lack of reaction to the power button).
- A faulty or unsupported processor is installed on the board.
- Faulty processor power system (VRM).
- Faulty RAM or its power elements.
- On old motherboards - the northern bridge or power of the bridge failed.
The computer turns off immediately after switching on or cyclically reboots at an early stage of startup.
- Floor BIOS.
- Defects of RAM.
- The same reasons as with the complete absence of a reaction to the button.
The computer is turned on only after repeated clicks on the button.
- If the car over 5-7 years is the production of the resource of electrolytic capacitors in the power supply, on the motherboard or devices connected to it.
- The power button is faulty (contacts).
- Faulty elements of the circuit of the board or power of high-loaded nodes.
Diagnosis at home
At home users, as a rule, there is no equipment that could facilitate troubleshooting, so it remains to use the senses and spare, obviously good parts.
Before you begin diagnostics, it is important to recall that preceded the emergence of the problem and what could cause it. For example, the computer suddenly turned off during a thunderstorm and no longer turns on. The reason is the burning of the network controller with high-voltage charge of lightning through a twisted pair. If it stopped turning on after some manipulations in the system unit - connecting a new device, cleaning from dust, etc., the reason is most likely in the wrong assembly or violation of the devices.
If an explicit causal relationship is not traced, for example, yesterday you turned off the computer as usual, and today it did not turn on, start checking from external contacts - the cord of the power supply, monitor and the rest, which is outside. In such cases, such a reception often helps: Turn off the machine from the outlet or key on the power supply (i.e., disconnect from the current source) and 20-30 seconds hold down the power button on the system unit. It will remove the static charge accumulated inside, which sometimes blocks the launch.
The squeak of the system speaker helps to narrow the circle of possible problems: decoding the sound signals is easy to find on the Internet. But consider that the bios of different manufacturers are "singing" in different ways. If the computer does not cook at all, it is either not equipped with a speaker, or due to the malfunction (as a rule, the power supply or motherboard) is not performed by the BIOS microcode.
In cases where you cannot decide where to "dig", use the algorithm that we give below. After each diagnostic stage, try to enable your computer.
- Inspect the system unit and all its connections outside. Turn off the optional periphery and all that is connected to USB, except the keyboard and mouse.
- Remove the system block cover, make sure that the internal connections are reliable. If there are dust clusters, remove them. If the motherboard is older than 3-5 years, replace the BIOS battery (CR-2032 brand, sold in kiosks).
- Without pressing the POWER buttons on the system unit (when the power supply is enabled), if possible, check whether the duty duty officer enters the motherboard (for example, on ASUS'ah there is a duty indicator LED). Check your hand the temperature of large elements of the motherboard, video cards and extension boards. Normally, they should be cold or slightly warm. If any detail is noticeably heated, it is very likely that it is a source of problem.
- Turn on the power unit power. Please note how fans behave. Normally, after promotion, they must drop a little speed. If you see exactly such a picture, the reason that there is no image on the screen, with an 80% probability is a malfunction in the video method. If the coolers work at the highest speed, the reason is in the rallying bios, the "bat" RAM, non-working / non-operating processor or the Northern Bridge (on old motherboards). If the coolers make several revolutions and stop or manage only to twist, the source of the problem is in a short circuit on any of the devices or bad contact in the places of their connections. Cycles Promotion and stops running one after another (rebooting the computer at an early stage of launch) is usually due to BIOS damage. If the fans are not spinning at all, most likely, they are not powered. It happens more often when the power supply or motherboard is fault.
- If there are no short circuit features (when they are, the further diagnostics should be continued only after it is eliminated), turn off the computer power and reset the BIOS settings to defaults.
If the above algorithm did not clarify the situation, further diagnostics is more convenient to continue on the stand assembled on the table.
Before removing the components from the housing, do not forget to de-energize the system unit, and the monitor - turn off the power filter or pull the cords from the outlet. If the computer is powered by the UPS, simply disconnect the last from the outlet is not enough, since in batteries anyway there is a charge.
Follow the workplace. The table on which you will collect the booth should be dry and clean. Use special antistatic mats is optional, enough so that there is nothing metallic on the table. In order not to damage the electronic components with static from your body, it is advisable to put an antistatic bracelet on your hand. If it is not, nothing terrible: just touch the hands of any unpainted part of the PC housing.
Taking every detail, inspect it on the subject:
- chipping elements;
- the integrity of the contact groups (the presence of broken and bent contacts melted or darkened from overheating plastic pads);
- deformed and defective components (swollen capacitors, traces of electrolyte of them, microcircuits with spots, and even more holes from the projection);
- Dreams on the textolite (from the reverse side of the board under highly heating elements often appear yellow or brown spots).
- Scratch (if the scratch is above the tracks, consider it under a magnifying glass with a maximum increase to make sure that the tracks are intact).
Any of the listed defects may be the cause of the inoperability of the PC.
On machines that turn on for too long, after or after multiple reboots, pay special attention to the capacitors and the state of the textolite under them. So, the electrolyte who taught their deadline may look normally, issuing a malfunction only with a small dark speck on the circulation of the board.
With any suspicion of disrepair of electrolytic capacitors, they should be replaced with new, and not only clearly defective, and all that stand in one chain with them.
Having finished with the inspection of devices, collect the stand on the table in the minimum configuration. For the test launch, a rather motherboard with a processor and cooler, one memory module, power supply, keyboard and video card (if you use a discrete, and the processor is either the board has a built-in video, connect the monitor to the latter).
During the build of the stand, it will not hurt to clean the contact ridges of the RAM and the boards of expansion of the school erasing rubber. It will remove the oxide flare from them, which worsens contact in the connectors.
- Turn on the power supply (if it is working, the duty voltage must start on the fee). Once again, check the temperature of the components. Hot, as you remember, should not be normal.
- In case of doubt about the performance of the power supply, replace it with obviously good (if available). If there is no such, try to start it separately from the system: Disconnect the 24-pin connector from the motherboard and connect the load, for example, an optical drive or a conventional switch with soldered wires to one of the free connectors. Close on the block that connects to the motherboard, contacts opposite the green and one of the ferrous wires. If the load feeds the sign of "life", and the fan will be twisted in the block itself, you can consider it conditionally operational.
To avoid the electrician, do not open the power supply, even if it is turned off. The containers in the high-voltage part of its scheme can save a charge for quite a long time.
- Run the stand (without forgetting to return the power supply unit to the place). This time not from the power button, and the closure of the contacts to which its wires are connected on the board. If the picture appeared on the screen (the computer earned), the cause of the problem is in the devices that are not connected to the stand now. If an obviously good monitor does not turn on, the failure occurs due to one of the devices involved.
As in indirect signs to identify a problem node
- If there are several memory modules on the computer, try running the stand with each in turn by setting them into different slots. If one of the combinations turn out to be a working, update the BIOS firmware. After that, it may earn the rest of the memory.
- If none of the RAM modules made the stand turn on, try to start it without memory at all. In this way, you check the conditional "liveliness" BIOS. "Live" firmware will give yourself to know the support of the system dynamics or flashing indicators on the keyboard or motherboard.
- Install a well-serviceable and compatible processor on the stand. If the computer will turn on with it normally, update the BIOS. Perhaps the processor that stood before was simply not recognized by the system.
- If you use a discrete video card, check it in different slots (if available), and also connect through another video output to another monitor input.
- If everything is described above, it has not helped you to identify the source of the problem, the culprit is likely to be the key node - the motherboard.
What to do with the device, which caused a failure? The choice is small: replace with new or attribute to the service for repairs.